Undercover Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Launchmetrics Spotlight for The Impression
Are dress codes passé? Based on what I’ve seen at recent events, the invites might as well say, “Come as you want,” “Come as you are,” or “Just Come!”
Having a dress code is a way for a host to frame an event and set a standard in hopes that invitees will get the memo and dress accordingly; however, fewer and fewer people appear to pay much heed to such guidelines. Instead, they dress as they please.
Unless you are invited to a White House State Dinner or a formal sit-down dinner with royalty at Buckingham Palace, the idea of a strict required dress code seems outdated, entirely beside the point if not altogether passé and irrelevant in today’s self-expressive world. It’s more about presenting the best version of yourself at any given moment than adhering to a firm, stifling set of rules.
In this topsy-turvy, wild, mixed-up world where so much is going on, who cares about dress codes anyway? Indeed, there are far more pressing concerns to be addressed. Besides, everything seems upside down. Nowadays, women wear long dresses during the day and shorts or jeans at night. I’ve seen women more dressed up in the morning on the subways than some attendees at formal evening galas.
All dressed up at the Central Park Hat Luncheon, and it’s not even noon, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
At the Central Park Hat Luncheon, there’s always a display of full-on evening gowns, furs, jewels, and, of course, fantastical hats, and it’s not even 11:30 am. On the other hand, I’ve attended several recent “Black Tie” events where women appear to have just come from work, shopping, or running errands in the afternoon.
At the 2025 Met Gala, where the dress code was “Tailored For You,” there were more than a few guests who looked like they were heading somewhere else or would rather be anywhere else than the steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art on that First Monday in May.
Kerin Rose Gold attends the YAGP 2025 Gala, Photo by BFA
The dress code for the 2025 YAGP Gala in April was “cocktail attire,” but it was hard to tell from many of the women, who were dressed to the nines in long gowns. The New York City Ballet’s Spring 2025 Spring Gala was a Masked Ball in celebration of New York City Ballet’s Founding Choreographer George Balanchine’s incredible artistry, with an exceptional performance of Vienna Waltzes. Many guests arrived sans masks. A few did not even appear to be dressing for a ball.
In keeping with the times, there’s no question that dress codes are evolving to be more inclusive and less rigid. There is a trend towards more relaxed interpretations, a greater emphasis on individual expression, and a broader cultural shift towards more casual and comfortable attire.
Perhaps that’s why we’re seeing more calls for “Festive Cocktail Attire,” Festive Black Tie,” and my favorite, “Creative Black Tie,” which take some of the stiffness and formality out of the equation.
Not that many of us need a reminder to keep it “festive” or to get creative and have fun with fashion for an event. Isn’t that the point? Of course, how one defines “festive” and “creative,” like the Rorschach test, is open to interpretation, but I have my ideas.
For me, “Creative Black Tie” is about thinking outside the box, bending the rules, adding an element of surprise, and mixing elements like day and evening, as well as high and low. It’s about adding a splash of bad taste, à la Diana Vreeland, and, most importantly, looking relaxed and comfortable.
It generally requires more thought and contemplation than simply donning a traditional evening gown. Sportswear components and trousers are often involved. Jun Takahashi’s ornate evening suit, complete with gilded shoes to match (the first look at his Undercover runway show in Paris), perfectly sums it up: luxe, unexpected, and just oddball enough. Refer to lead shot.
Valentino Fall 2023 Couture, Photo courtesy of Valentino
No designer can take a pair of trousers and make them look as fabulous, desirable, and as soigné as Pierpaolo Piccioli, the former creative director of Valentino. With his deceptively minimalist designs, his unparalleled color sense, his luxurious fabrications, and sculptural, poetic haute couture, PP is a master of “Creative Black Tie.” No doubt we will see more of this as Pierpaolo takes the helm as creative director of Balenciaga.
Among the fashion designers whose work consistently epitomizes the idea of “Creative Black Tie” are Thom Browne, thanks to his inventive takes on the traditional tuxedo, and Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli, with his boundary-pushing, fantasy-filled, and opulent designs.
Hiandra Martinez attends the 2025 El Museo Gala, Photo by BFA
At the recent El Museo Gala, Hiandra Martinez’s outfit was a perfect example of ‘Creative Black Tie’. She stood out in a room filled with traditional evening gowns, dressed in an appliqued denim coat and wide-legged trousers, embodying the theme with her unique and creative interpretation.
TWP Dutton shirt in cotton and silk, $535, and Cry Me A River Skirt in antique ivory silk organza, $2499, www.twpclothing.com
One image that always stays in my mind is Tonne Goodman at the 2010 CFDA Awards. When the iconic Vogue editor received the Eleanor Lambert Award, she was dressed in a black silk button-down shirt paired with a floor-length black sequined skirt by Michael Kors. It’s a simple, fail-proof, and impactful formula that never gets old and is relatively easy to duplicate.
While Creative Black Tie evokes the idea of evening separates, that does not necessarily exclude an evening dress or evening gown. But if you are going to wear one, make it great. Among the standouts this season is the vintage tri-color Galanos caped gown worn by Lauren Veronis to the New York City Ballet Spring 2025 Gala.
ABT Dancer Catherine Hurlin in Vera Wang Couture, Photo by BFA
One of the best black dresses I’ve seen lately is the Vera Wang Couture gown worn by ABT dancer Catherine Hurlin at the American Ballet Theatre (ABT) Spring 2025 Gala. Made of black parachute cloth with practical side pockets, the sensational dress was perfectly styled by PJ Pascual, who added graphic black and white striped pumps as a punctuation mark.
Jean Shafiroff wearing Victor dE Souza with the designer, Photo by Laurel Marcus
Victor dE Souza’s cornflower blue couture gown, featuring an ornate bolero and matching gloves with hand-embroidered ruched raw florets, worn by Jean Shafiroff to the 2025 NYBG Conservatory Ball, may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it is unique and unexpected. And, it was perfect for the event.
Coco Rocha attends the Cannes 2025 Festival, Photo by Getty Images.
Of course, trying too hard to be creative often doesn’t work; in fact, it can backfire, as illustrated by Coco Rocha’s appearance at the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, dressed by Onut Razvan.
