On Tuesday, November 16 at 10am..





Tuesday, November 16, 2004 at 10am


Saturday, November 13, 10am – 5pm (Walkabout w/Specialist at Noon)

Sunday, November 14, Noon – 5pm

Monday, November 15, 10am – 2pm

On Tuesday, November 16 at 10am, Doyle New York will hold an auction of important vintage couture by the world’s most famed couturiers. The sale will also feature an extensive single owner collection of costume jewelry. Additional offerings include elegant handbags, hats, accessories, cases and trunks, as well as American, European and Asian textiles. The public is invited to the exhibition on view from Saturday, November 13 through Monday, November 15. Doyle is located at 175 East 87th Street in Manhattan.

Couture highlights from the early 20th century include a remarkable group of gowns from the collection of the American heiress Margaret Daly Brown, daughter of the legendary Montana “Copper King” Marcus Daly. Following the death of Mrs. Brown in 1911, the gowns were packed away in a trunk in 1913, and have emerged only recently as part of the estate of her daughter, Frances Carroll Brown.

Featured in the Margaret Daly Brown Collection is an avant garde 1910 purple voided velvet evening gown by Lucile, the first internationally celebrated British woman couturier. Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon, dressed the aristocracy, royalty and stage stars of Europe from her couture salon in London. Her clients included the Queens of England and Spain; Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborough; Lillie Langtry; Isadora Duncan and others. From 1910 to 1915, Lucile went on to open salons in New York, Paris and Chicago, dressing actresses Irene Castle, Marion Davis and Mary Pickford, as well as society clients like Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney. The gown in the Margaret Daly Brown Collection appears to be from Lucile’s American debut collection in 1910 (est. $5,000-7,000).

Other highlights from the Brown Collection include two elegant gowns by Worth. The first is a circa 1905 coupe des velours evening gown of pale aquamarine silk (est. $5,000-7,000) and the second, also circa 1905, is a gold voided silk velvet evening gown (est. $7,000-9,000).

The auction also offers a selection of late 19th and early 20th century New York designs, including the 1899 wedding gown worn by Esther Maria Lewis Chapin, who was presented at court wearing the Worth gown and train that fetched $101,500 at Doyle several years ago. Other notable early designs include a 1925 black lace dress by Chanel, and a collection of 1920s gowns and accessories descended in the family of American heiress Margaret Preston Draper, who married Italian Prince BonCompagni in 1916. Featured is the Princess’ lace wedding gown, possibly Worth, as well as her original invoices from Patout, Vionnet, Drecoll and others. Dating to 1939 is a rare, early dress by Balenciaga of olive drab crepe de chine with a whimsical print of flying ducks.

From the 1960s and 70s are dresses and suits from the collection of the Marquesa de San Damian, featuring creations by Balenciaga, Chanel, Givenchy, Dior, Galanos and Guy Laroche. From another collection is a rare 1970 Norell brown velvet coat trimmed in white mink at the collar, cuffs and hem (est. $4,000-6,000).

The auction will also offer Stephen Sprouse’s day-glo orange wool coat from his first collection in 1983, which was modeled on the cover of Vogue by Brooke Shields. From a private collection is a group of signature clothing and accessories by Hermes. Other notable designers represented in the sale include Fortuny, Paquin, Saint Laurent, Trigere, Halston, Thea Porter, Maimbocher, Adrian, Pucci, Jean Louis, Commes des Garconnes, Versace and Geoffrey Beene.

Among the elegant accessories are cases and handbags by Vuitton, Hermes, Vuitton, Nettie Rosenstein and Iradj Moini, as well as hats by Jean Barthet. The textile section includes fine linens and laces, in addition to American, European and numerous Asian textiles.




Including a selection of highlights

Couture: http://www.DoyleNewYork.com/pr/couture

Costume Jewelry: http://www.DoyleNewYork.com/pr/couture/04CT02/jewelry.htm


Clair L. Watson

Director, Couture Department

Tel 212-427-4141, ext 603




Ernest Schmatolla is publisher of Lookonline since 1994. It is the longest running fashion site on the Internet.

No Comments Yet

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.