Fashion Month was all over the place, both literally and metaphorically. From New York to Paris to LA , there were men’s shows, women’s shows, and gender benders. Menswear is shown on women, womenswear on men, and gender-neutral designs for all.
There were intimate presentations staged by relative unknowns in small apartments and large shows by brands with worldwide name recognition held in grand hotel ballrooms, museums, and iconic historic locations.
The idea of trends is entirely passe. That is not to say there are ongoing themes. While last season was a blur of denim, this time around, it’s all about leather, specifically black leather. Brown might be the “New Black,” but black is still king. So many shows began with a black pantsuit or a black coat I lost count. White shirts are having their moment, black tie optional.
Boots of all kinds stormed the runways along with chic, classic pumps, unwieldy platforms, and funky furry footwear. Global Warming or not, fall 2023 is a touchy-feely tactile season with cozy shearlings, furs, and faux furs enveloping the body. Sex is always in the air, whether explicit or discreet.
The bottom line is that every fashion coin has a flip side. There are always contradictions, wide variances, and exceptions to every rule. Going from one end of the fashion spectrum to another isn’t new, but it seems more exaggerated, like everything else. These are some of the examples that stand out to me.
Left: Embracing your inner tomboy, Christian Dior, Fall 2023 Ready–to–Wear, Photo by Filippo Fior for Gorunway.com; Right: Unapologetically girlie, Giambattista Valli, Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Giovanni Giannoni for WWD.
Left: Brooding, dark, and moody, Balenciaga Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Carlo Scarpato for Gorunway.com; Right: Exuberantly joyful, Tomo Koizumi Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Acielle for Style Du Monde.
Left: Dressed for Global Warming, Prada Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Isadore Montag for Gorunway.com; Right: Clothing that is perfect for Nanook of the North, Moncler Genius Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy Moncler.
Left: Beautifully thought out designs with built-in practicality, Sacai, Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Acielle for Style Du Monde; Right: Designs that are quirky but completely useless PH5 Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear. Photo by Acielle for Style Du Monde.
Left: Stripping down to the essential elements of a uniform, Prada Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Isadore Montag for Gorunway.com; Right: Stripping down to the skivvies, Meryll Rogge Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Vadim Kovriga. Gorunway.com.
Left: Quiet, understated elegance, Mila Schon, Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo courtesy of Mila Schon; Right: Positively Bacchanalian, Moschino Fall 2023 Ready-to-wear, Photo by Acielle for Style Du Monde.
Left: Highly conceptual, avant-garde, fashion as art: Rick Owens, Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Daniele Oberrauch for Gorunway.com; Right: Highly salable and commercial, Nili Lotan Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo Courtesy of Nili Lotan.
Left: A sublime touch of gold, Dries Van Noten, Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Alessandro Lucioni for Gorunway.com; Right: Blindingly garish, Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Daniele Oberrauch for Gorunway.com.
Left: Covered in roses, Richard Quinn Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Daniele Oberrauch for Gorunway.com; Right: Covered in rats, Christopher Kane, Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Filippo Fior for Gorunway.com. There are better things to wear to a luncheon or dinner party.
Left: Predicable Glamour: A bejeweled satin gown with a train, Moschino Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Acielle for Style Du Monde; Right: Modern glamour: the surprise of a train added to a plain floor-length white cotton shirt dress, Prada Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear, Photo by Launchmetrics Spotlight for the Impression.
Wouldn’t seeing someone wear this on the Oscar red carpet would be great?
There are so many options for how to present oneself. It’s dizzying: fantasy or reality, minimal or maximum, masculine or feminine, body revealing or body obscuring, curvy skirt suits or oversize pantsuits, pancake flats or skyscraper heels? The choice is yours.
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Great reporting Marilyn! And just in time for the Oscars with ” Suddenly,Everything Everywhere All at Once!” is up for best picture.
Since it is all over the place nowadays, on the positive side of that perhaps fashion, inspired folk will create their own trends, rather than follow them. Do we have to look to street style for direction? Can we ever be free of other’s influences and say , “This is what really lights me Up!”
For me black is always King.
Love Nili Notan❗️ Love camel coat.
Thanks darling for your help.
I apologize for missing your calls. New phone and apparently I needed/need to set something up before I can receive calls like your 🎥
And yes, obviously, I found your interesting article and photos. I only followed PFW, didn’t see any others so I enjoyed your photos. Nili is my favorite.