Furs Return with a Vengeance: What Global Warming?

Customers trying on furs at The Manhattan Vintage Show, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner

Central Park finally reached above freezing, with the mercury hitting 34 degrees on Monday after nine straight days of temperatures stuck below 32 degrees. As of late January and early February 2026, New York City is experiencing an exceptionally long and intense cold streak, with forecasts suggesting it could challenge records for consecutive days below freezing.

The last time the city endured a stretch of cold like this for more than nine days was in January 2018, when Central Park dipped below freezing for 14 consecutive days.

“Furs were flying out the door!” – Amy Abrams, Owner, The Manhattan Vintage Show.

Is it any wonder that the one thing attendees at the recent Manhattan Vintage Show (it ran from Friday, January 30, to Sunday, February 1st) gravitated to was real furs? Not only did the frigid weather not keep customers away, but they also showed up in droves, waiting outside online to get in.

Furs, cowboy hats, and cowboy boots were a popular combination. Photo by Marilyn Kirschner

Guests were not only swathed in fur (most wearing jeans, cowboy boots, and cowboy hats), but also shopping for furs (coats, jackets, hats, muffs, etc.), often trying on two or three at a time. One of the busiest booths was Igala Vintage NYC, which specializes in vintage outerwear.

Igala Vintage NYC booth at the Manhattan Vintage Show, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner

They held an extensive collection of vintage furs especially for the show, and it paid off. Priced from $795 – $1100, the selection included jackets and coats, mainly oversized and unisex, made of fox, coyote, mink, beaver, and sable.

Trying on a vintage fur-trimmed vest at Lofty Vintage, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner

Real fur is currently experiencing a complex, polarizing comeback, making it both passé in new production and trending in vintage consumption. For many, the stigma of wearing fur is fading because they view vintage fur as recycling rather than supporting new animal cruelty.

Ultimately, while wearing new, mass-produced real fur is increasingly seen as outdated, vintage real fur is considered fashionable among younger people.

Furs were flying, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner

While many designers and brands have gone fur-free due to cruelty concerns, Gen Z is driving a resurgence in wearing secondhand fur, often styled with a “Mob Wife” vibe. Young people are buying used real fur from consignment stores as a sustainable, affordable, and stylish alternative to expensive new options.

Arguments for real fur often center on its durability, natural sustainability, and superior warmth compared to synthetic alternatives. Supporters emphasize that it is biodegradable, unlike plastic-based faux fur, and can last for decades, reducing the need for frequent replacements. Additionally, it is often viewed as a luxurious, natural material.

It’s important to note that these arguments are heavily contested by critics who cite animal welfare concerns and the high environmental impact of intensive fur farming. Last December, the CFDA announced a ban on real animal fur, including mink, fox, and rabbit, from the official New York Fashion Week (NYFW) schedule.

This policy applies to all CFDA-managed events, websites, and social media channels. An exception is permitted for animal fur obtained by Indigenous communities through traditional subsistence hunting.

Because the ban starts in September 2026, covering the Spring/Summer 2027 collections, designed to give designers time to transition, it does not explicitly prohibit fur in February 2026, so we might see real fur on the runways. However, many designers have already voluntarily removed fur from their collections, making its appearance less likely.

Fendi Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear, Photo courtesy Fendi

Yet, despite a growing shift toward faux fur and sustainability in the fashion industry, several luxury brands and designers associated with the New York fashion scene or international fashion weeks (Fendi, Louis Vuitton) have recently featured real fur in their collections, blending it with conscious transparent sourcing.

Gabriela Hearst coat, scarf, and bag made of recycled Mahagony mink, Photo courtesy Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst typically uses repurposed/upcycled vintage mink rather than new, farm-raised fur, aligned with her sustainability-focused, luxury-with-a-conscience brand ethos. These vintage furs are sourced in Italy, unstitched, and reassembled by hand into new garments, such as coats and stoles.

The Row’s Lucja Coat in lambskin shearling, $12,500, Photo fwrd.com

Other American designers who have historically featured real fur include Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, Thom Browne, and The Row. The Olsen twins drew criticism from PETA for products such as a $16,900 fur backpack and alligator-skin purses.

Phoebe Philo often uses shearling, Spring 2026, Photo Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

Despite the criticism, the brand has continued to incorporate high-end animal materials, such as shearling, one of the best and most practical options for natural fur, into its collections. KHAITE, Prada, and Phoebe Philo are some of the other highly influential designers whose collections prominently feature shearling.

While some animal rights organizations consider all animal skin/fur unethical, shearling, often regarded as the “non-fur fur” of modern sustainable fashion, is viewed as a more acceptable and eco-friendly option than trapped or farmed fur because it uses a waste product from food production.

Gabriela Hearst Isak trench coat in lamb leather with lamb shearling trim, $15,900, gabrielahearst.com

Shearling is immensely popular due to its unrivaled combination of extreme warmth, lightweight comfort, and timeless, luxurious style. Made from sheepskin with the wool still attached, it provides natural insulation, durability, and breathability, making it a functional yet fashionable choice for winter. It is often worn for its iconic, rugged, “lived-in” aesthetic.

It’s ideal for those who are after something less obvious and in-your-face, and want to steer clear of the “Mob Wife” aesthetic. To further downplay the luxury, I suggest adding a rugged Western vibe. You can never go wrong with cowboy boots.

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Marilyn Kirschner

I am a long time fashion editor with 40+ years of experience. As senior market of Harper's Bazaar for 21 years I met and worked with every major fashion designer in the world and covered all of the collections in Paris, London, Milan and New York. I was responsible for overall content, finding and pulling in the best clothes out there, and for formulating ideas and stories.

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