Left: Phoebe Philo Sequined T-Shirt Dress, $19,000 Right: INC Sequined Midi Dress, $119, macys.com
The prices for Phoebe Philo’s inaugural collection are beyond most people’s reach. There is virtually nothing under $1000, and much of the line is well into the 5 figures, but still, almost 24 hours after its launch, more than two-thirds of the line was entirely sold out.
A turtleneck sweater with extra-long sleeves and a pair of polyamide leggings are priced at $1100, jackets average $4,000, and bags are $5,000. The $3,000 MUM necklace in 23 karat gold plated sterling silver, which is also sold out, prompted someone on TikTok to observe, “Everyone is running to Amazon to buy gold tone letter beads to make that necklace.”
“Whether you love what she does or not, Philo seems as well-positioned as anyone can be to become the next bizarrely resilient, costly fashion brand” Amy Odell, Fashion and Culture Journalist.
Amy Odell, Fashion and Culture Journalist.
But, one doesn’t need to buy the actual clothes to be inspired by Phoebe’s color palette, her silhouettes, her use of proportion, the studied weirdness, or the overall mood that imbues the line. This is best summed up by a woman who commented after Cathy Horyn reviewed the collection, “Phoebe Philo’s Return Is a Wake-Up Call”, October 30th.
She said, “Even though I will never own any of those clothes, I can translate the vibe in my life, and this morning, I felt like my clothes had a new power. Thank you, Phoebe”.
Some Philophiles and fashion followers will similarly be inspired to rethink their wardrobes. Still, for those who seek out similar pieces at affordable prices, I select 11 of Phoebe’s signature items and show them alongside their less pricey doppelganger.
The High Collared Trench Coat
Left: Phoebe Philo’s belted trench coat in khaki mélange whipcord wool is double-breasted, has exaggerated volume, padded shoulders, and an attachable leather bound double-face scarf. It is sold out, and no price is available. Right: the Decima Trench coat in slate green woven cotton twill has a pointed collar with a detachable throat latch, detachable buckle belt, adjustable tab cuffs, and welt hip pockets. Priced at $489, it is for sale at thefrankieshop.com.
The Shaggy, Off-White Faux Fur Coat
Left: Phoebe Philo’s hand-combed embroidered coat with bell sleeves is made of cream glossy viscose with all-over hand-combed embroidery. It’s so expensive (over $25,000) that rather than listing the price, they say, “POA” (Price On Asking).
Right: H&M’s single-breasted coat is made of fluffy, light beige modacrylic. It is fully lined and has wide, notched lapels, concealed snap fasteners at the front, long sleeves, and discreet side seam pockets. Priced at $66.99, it is for sale at hm.com.
The Double Breasted Tailored Pantsuit
Left: Phoebe Philo’s structured shoulder tailored jacket and classic trousers (the pants are $1600) in “shroom” wool are a mainstay of the collection, and both pieces are sold out. Right: Cos’s double-breasted wool blazer, $250, and high-waisted pleated trousers, $175, made of 100% RWS dark brown wool. The suit is shown with the waist-defining knotted leather belt, which costs $99. All are available at cos.com
The Masculine Black Wool Coat
Left: Phoebe Philo’s mannish coat has an unapologetically masculine fit and is made of sharp-pressed black wool and cashmere. It is sold out, and no price is available. Right, Cos’s oversized double-breasted coat in black wool is striking yet refined. Shaped with a double-breasted close, it honors classic tailoring codes with its sharp peak lapels, felt under the collar, single vent, and intricate pick stitching. Priced at $390, it is for sale at cos.com
The Zip Front Black Leather Jacket
Left: Phoebe Philo’s jacket in black unlined leather has a front zip, zip pockets, shirt style collar and straight and sharp silhouette. It is priced at $6900 and will be available soon. Right: The “Kaia” cropped jacket is made of smooth black faux leather. It has a front zip closure, pointed collar, snap epaulets, front zip welt pockets, and elasticized ribbed bottom. Priced at $349, it is for sale at thefrankieshop.com.
Oversized Frame Sunglasses
Left: Phoebe Philo’s Bombe oversized sunglasses with brown acetate frames have extra-wide angular temples and dark brown lenses. Priced at $750, they are for sale at phoebphilo.com. Right: TYA’s oversized futuristic sunglasses have bold frames that are exaggerated to resemble ski goggles. They wrap around your eyes in all directions and offer 100% UV lenses to protect the eyes. Priced at $18.99, they are for sale at amazon.com.
The Capacious Black Leather Carryall
Left: Phoebe Philo’s XL Cabas in smooth black calf leather has toffee suede lining and silver dog-clip closure. Priced at $18,000, it is sold out. Right: Cos’s slouchy black leather shoulder bag is supersized and ultra-slouchy in shape. It’s designed with a wide shoulder strap, tonal topstitching, and an inner zip pocket to keep your valuables on hand. Crafted from butter-soft chrome-free leather tanned a deep-black hue with polished silver-tone hardware, it is priced at $390 and available at cos.com.
The Tasseled Black Leather Coat
Left: Phoebe Philo’s tasseled black leather bomber jacket has a snapped stand collar, side pockets, elasticized cuffs, and hem. The jacket has a rounded fit and is embroidered on the front only with hand-cut, broad leather tassels. It is listed at $12,000 and will be available soon on phoebephilo.com. Right: Cos’s leather tasseled wool coat is part of the COS ATELIER collection, a limited capsule founded on luxury and exceptional design principles.
This striking piece is the embodiment of the ATELIER design philosophy. Expertly tailored to oversized proportions, it’s designed with structured shoulders, exaggerated peak lapels, and a single-button close. The suiting-inspired back vent prevents the fabric from creasing as you sit. Priced at $1690, it is for sale at cos.com.
The Army Green Cargo Jacket
Left: Phoebe Philo’s sold-out army green cargo jacket is made of lightweight washed silk viscose canvas. It has patch pockets, epaulets, and small shoulder pads. Right: Cos’s Khaki green utility jacket is crafted from hard-wearing cotton twill in khaki and features several pockets, just like classic field styles. It’s made modern by the open spread collar and minimal concealed placket. Priced at $135, it is for sale at cos.com.
The Square Toed Black Leather Platform Boot
Left: Phoebe Philo’s Jodhpur boot in black leather has a platform sole and 100mm heel. The boot has elasticized and pull-on leather tabs on the front and back. Priced at $1750, it will soon be available on phoebephilo.com. Right: Cos’s ankle boots take inspiration from the ’70s – note the square toes, angular block heels, and exaggerated platform soles. They’re crafted from shiny chrome-free leather in classic black. Priced at $285, they are for sale at cos.com.
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