Mid 90’s Issey Miyake jacket,$2298, desertvintage.com, all photos courtesy Desert Vintage
There’s something magical about the transition from summer into fall. It’s a time of fresh starts, new beginnings, and the start of a new fashion cycle. The first few weeks of September set the shift into motion. It’s still summertime, but there’s an intangible turning of the page. In France, this transitional period is called la rentrée, which refers to the re-entry or return to school and work after the summer break.
From a selection of antique scarves, $498, desertvintage.com
You want to feel polished, pulled together, and urbane, but simultaneously, you want to keep it easy and light. Desert Vintage is one of the best places to search for those seeking remarkable one-of-a-kind pieces with a haute couture sensibility that transcend seasons and eras.
Zoran taupe silk and wool shell, $698, desertvintage.com
What has struck me in the past few weeks is how perfect their selections are for this transitional time, bridging the gap between summer and fall, beach and town.
Alaia corseted skirt, $1298, desertvintage.com
Desert Vintage’s weekly mailings with images of new arrivals with designs by Gianfranco Ferre, Thea Porter, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, John Galliano, Alaia, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Zoran, Halston, Romeo Gigli, etc. hold their own with all the Fall Fashion editions that are coming out now.
Desert Vintage, a designer boutique in Tucson with a large online fan base and a New York outpost (34 Orchard Street), offers a curated selection of authentic vintage (designer and non-designer) from the turn of the century through the 1970s. Their unique offerings are sure to intrigue and excite you.
2005 Issey Miyake Fete crimson blazer, $1498 desertvintage.com
While DV stocks well-known creators, they tend to gravitate to lesser-known, more cerebral names like Ghost, Isabel Canovas, Isabel Toledo, Tan Giudicelli, and Romeo Gigli.
“When Salima merchandises a rack, she makes it feel like a full collection. Once, a designer was so impressed with its presentation that she took the whole rolling rack away from our booth.” Roberto Cowan
Desert Vintage owners Salima Boufelfel and Roberto Cowan have already amassed a well-deserved cult-like following among stylists and avid fashion followers. Their eclectic, ever-revolving, thoughtfully curated selections and their skill at mixing and styling collections in a contemporary way that keeps it real, coupled with their personal touch and rich history, make you feel connected and engaged.
Early Ann Demeulemeester Dress, $1298, desertvintage.com
Roberto photographs all the images, and they are right on point. His models wear little or no makeup, and jewelry is minimal. Salima and Roberto are adept at taking something extraordinary, quirky, or traditional evening wear and making it modern and ready for daytime daytime-ready. They are also fond of mixing eras.
The Desert Vintage customer would pair a Victorian blouse with Phoebe Philo-era trousers, and those kinds of surprising put-together are a large part of Desert Vintage’s appeal. Their collections are full of surprises that will keep you intrigued and surprised.
Most recently, they photographed a beautiful Victorian white blouse with vintage YSL black knee-length pants. The blouse sold out immediately, as does much of their fabulous inventory.
Isabel Canovas Shawl, $1898, desertvintage
The couple is also skilled at transformation and loves playing with scarves. They artfully draped a vintage fringed scarf around a blazer, creating a new design. That scarf sold as well, but they have another one in white. A beautiful multi-colored lame Isabel Canovas scarf is styled to look like a cape.
Victoria Era Silk Blouse, desertvintage.com
Selima and Roberto’s aesthetic is inspired by the location of their Tucson, Arizona store, which opened in 1974. They took it over in 2012, and like the name, they kept it. The Ténéré is their original concept collection. It is not only a desert region in south-central Sahara; the word also translates to mean ‘to hold’ to keep.
12016 Issey Miyake pleated cocoon tunic $2498, desertvintage.com
The Ténéré collection, embodies the essence of the desert, with many of its exceptional designs featuring desert-hued colors and textures, reminiscent of YSL’s iconic fashion in Marrakesh.
Maude wearing a 1986 Alaia leather jacket, desertvintage.com
I recently had my eye on a sumptuous Alaia brown leather jacket, which has been sold. Still, several great Alaïa designs are available, including an iconic maxi trench coat with a sweeping skirt.
Paco Rabanne Umbrella Coat, $1898, desertvintage.com
The 1960s Paco Rabanne Umbrella Coat in gray silk is outstanding from a design point of view and practical, given how much rain we are experiencing lately. The umbrella hats attaches to the back, but it can be removed. What a great item to take to Paris for the collections!
Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferre 90’s silk coat ensemble, $7990, desertvintage.com
Among the other current standouts is a dramatic red silk coat ensemble designed by Gianfranco Ferre for Christian Dior in the mid-90s. In 1989, he became artistic director of Christian Dior. Ferré designed haute couture and women’s prêt-à-porter collections for Dior until 1996, when he returned to work exclusively for his company. Ferre is masterful, and I think his work is often underappreciated
Romeo Gigli bronze silk suit, $1698 desertvintage.com
While Roberto does not play favorites with designers, he admits to being a big fan of Gianfranco Ferré and Romeo Gigli. With a career spanning over three decades, Gigli has left an indelible mark on the fashion industry with his avant-garde designs and poetic approach to fashion.
Romeo Gigli silk cape, $2298 desertvintage.com
This trend, characterized by bold, structured silhouettes and strong, masculine lines, was popularized by designers like Giorgio Armani and was a stark contrast to Gigli’s more delicate and feminine approach to fashion.
I had the pleasure of meeting both designers in the 80s when I covered the collections in Milan. It was a particular time for fashion, and they both held a special place in my heart.
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