Valentino Garavani in his Rome apartment, 1970, Photo by Horst P. Horst
In 2025 we saw the loss of many icons: Redford, Hackman, Keaton (film); Ozzy Osborne, Brian Wilson (music); Jane Goodall (primatology); Armani (fashion design); Diane Keaton, Jacqueline de Ribes (style). Diane Keaton embodied eclectic individuality, while Jacqueline de Ribes personified chic. Marking another turn, the new year began with the passing of “The Sheik of Chic,” Valentino Garavini, on January 20 at the age of 93.
“In the end, if we simply let chic be chic rather than forcing it on every single thing we do, we might rediscover its meaning a bit – and be able to enjoy it now and again for the intangible, wry, can’t-quite-put-your-finger-on-it phenomenon that it is.” – Lauren O’Neill, British Vogue
Jacqueline de Ribes, 1955, portrait by Richard Avedon
Historically, “Chic” signified a specific, understated style—think of the little black dress. Today, the term is applied so broadly—from food to gardening—that it has become a meaningless catchall, losing touch with genuine taste and subjective beauty. Occasionally, it is even politicized as a conservative vs. progressive aesthetic. As a result, some declare the word is “dead” due to its ubiquity.
Following O’Neill’s observation, many fashion writers and critics argue that “Chic” has lost its essence. Overuse—particularly on social media—has diluted its meaning, making it a vague term for anything merely trendy, rather than the effortless elegance that once set chic apart. This overextension raises the central question: Does chic still mean anything distinctive?
This perspective is echoed by Róisín Lanigan in her article, “The Death of Chic,” 9/30/22, i-D Magazine, which begins with the astute thought, “If everything is chic, chic becomes meaningless.” Lauren O’Neill also decrees, “RIP ‘Chic’, The Word Has Finally Lost All Meaning,” British Vogue, May 2025.
In response to this semantic drift, Vogue suggests alternatives like “swank,” “jazzy,” “swish,” “trendy,” “elegant,” “sophisticated,” or, embracing internet culture, “core.” Yet none make the cut. With this in mind, it’s time to reassess.
“There is no substitute for the word “Chic.” Elegant is the closest, but “Chic” is even more ineffable than elegant, and there is more dash and mystique to chic than there is to elegant. “Chic” isn’t banal, the way “cool” can be. And chic isn’t common, or disposable like “trendy.” Glamorous can have a touch of vulgarity to it. “Chic” never does.” – Amy Fine Collins
Deeda Blair at home in Manhattan wearing Ralph Rucci, Photo by Julia Hetta
For everyone who calls chic outdated, my argument is this: there is no other word that so concisely describes icons like Babe Paley (who, according to Truman Capote, never had an “unchic day in her life”), Gloria Guinness, Tina Chow, Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Elsa Peretti, Valentino Garavani, Jacqueline de Ribes, Deeda Blair, Ines de la Fressange, Amy Fine Collins, or Tonne Goodman. I maintain that “chic,”both as a concept and a word, remains essential, distinctive, and relevant today.
Tonne Goodman attends the 2026 Winter Show Opening Night Party, Photo by Marilyn Kirschner
I spotted Tonne at the 2026 Winter Show Opening Party on Thursday evening. Among a crowd of overdressed guests, Tonne stood out in her signature uniform: crisp white jeans, black loafers, a black turtleneck, red scarf, and a perfectly cut black peacoat by Dries Van Noten. To me, that is chic.
Rory Gevis surrounded by her artwork with Elsa, Photo by @jezzhil
Capote once wrote in his notebook, “Mrs P. had only one fault. She was perfect; otherwise she was perfect.” While these qualities endure, it is clear that times have changed, and there is now space for a broader, more democratic interpretation of chic in line with today’s rules.
Building on this idea, I believe that perfection is highly overrated. I quite like it when something is a bit off just to make it interesting, personal, and individual. And yes, there is room for weirdness; just not TOO weird. Chic has largely become a synonym for “well-dressedness” or “a bit fancy,” but I see it quite differently.
RR-331 Fall 2019 Haute Couture, vogue.com
I always think of Ralph Rucci, who decreed that a woman wearing a piece of wood around her neck is more dramatic than diamonds—yes, and it’s also far more chic! Similarly, using a beautiful piece of sculpture for a handbag is far chicer than something with identifiable logos.
Celine Spring 2026 Ad Campaign, Photo by Zoë Ghertner
All of this raises a fundamental question: In these days of casual dress, “athleisure” wear, “normcore,” and anything-goes style, does the concept of chic still have any relevance? Is it still something to aspire to, and does anyone still care? My answer is a resounding “Yes”!If there IS such a thing as chic, what is it? “I know it when I see it.”
When I spot an image that evokes the word “chic,” (Madame Gres, Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic Le Smoking, Michael Rider’s Celine, impeccable tailoring, the combination of black and white instantly come to mind), there ARE always certain specific qualities.
For me, chic is timeless. While silhouettes and details may change, the basic design elements remain the same across decades. Chic is cohesive. The overall effect is that of a pleasing whole; the various bits don’t fight or compete with each other.
Tina Chow in 1983 Chanel Couture by Karl Lagerfeld, Photograph by Arthur Elgort for Vogue 1984
“Chic” is simple, polished. But it doesn’t have to be. There are no hard-and-fast rules. Not everyone who embraces minimalism is chic, and not everyone who piles it on isn’t. Tina Chow in Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld proves my point. It’s so much about attitude, carriage, posture, and confidence, not just the clothes worn.
“Chic” is elegant. Though not necessarily expensive. (While quality helps, I’ve seen women who look absolutely chic in men’s Hanes tee shirts. It’s all about how you wear it.) Chic is light-handed, even witty at times. Adding a touch of individuality, something personal, surprising, or unexpected, is very chic.
Emily Blunt wearing Louis Vuitton at the 2026 Golden Globe Awards, Photo by Getty Images
“Chic” is about leaving something to the imagination. For example, Emily Blunt exemplified chic at the Golden Globes, standing apart from those whose looks tried too hard. Some choices—like Teyana Taylor’s jeweled bow detail—detract from a chic impression, highlighting the importance of restraint and subtlety.
Amy Fine Collins wearing vintage Lacroix, Isaac Mizrahi necklace, vintage Lanvin cuff, Portrait by @alexihay for @tabletmag
“Chic” is authentic and appropriate to the situation and the person wearing it. Chic is comfortable, both physically and emotionally. You can’t be chic if you are hobbling or teetering.
The bottom line: not everyone finds chic appealing, and that’s fine—one can have great, enviable style without being chic. Some may view chic as boring, restrictive, or outmoded. I say chacun à son goût; this diversity in taste is what makes the world more interesting.
