Left, Valentino Fall 2023 Couture, photo courtesy of Valentino, Right, Balenciaga 1967 Vogue, Photo by Irving Penn
Renowned for his mastery of haute couture, a quality that aligns well with Balenciaga’s rich heritage, Pierpaolo Piccioli was a popular and logical choice for Balenciaga’s new creative director. His appointment was met with positive reactions from the fashion industry, highlighting his talent, experience, and unique vision.
Anticipation is high as Piccioli prepares to unveil his vision for Balenciaga, Spring 2026, during Paris Fashion Week in October. The long-awaited debut is uncannily timed with the release date of “Balenciaga-Kublin: A Fashion Record” in Europe (September 26) and the U.S. (October 22).
Balenciaga, Photograph by Tom Kublin, November 1963 Harper’s Bazaar US Courtesy of Hearst Magazine Media
The exquisite photography book, which I profiled on August 10, 2024, is written by Maria Kublin (daughter of Tom Kublin) and Ana Balda. It features the collaborative work of fashion photographer Tom Kublin and Cristobal Balenciaga. Hailed as the “Father of High Fashion Photography” and one of the most illustrious fashion photographers of the twentieth century, Kublin defined Balenciaga’s image between the 1950s and 1960s.
The author, an art historian and independent curator, considers Pierpaolo’s appointment as a move from rebellion to refinement, but done with great sensitivity to the brand’s heritage. It’s not just a shift in style but in spirit.
Pierpaolo Piccioli with his atelier at the finale of Valentino’s AW22 23 Haute Couture show on the Spanish Steps, Photo courtesy of Valentino
“Depending on how Pierpaolo executes it, this could either alienate the streetwear crowd or establish a new benchmark in thoughtful luxury fashion,” says Maria, who feels that Pierpaolo offers a move towards elevated couture, technical mastery, and emotional storytelling.
“Demna didn’t just return Balenciaga to couture, he redefined its relevance.” – Maria Kublin, Co-Author, “Balenciaga-Kublin: A Fashion Record”
Left, Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1954 – 5, Paris, Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Right, Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga, Autumn-Winter 2016 ready-to-wear, Photo Courtesy of Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia, who served as creative director from 2015 to 2025, transformed Balenciaga into a hype beast favorite by blending high fashion with streetwear, introducing elements of pop culture, and challenging traditional notions of luxury.
His bold, experimental designs, oversized silhouettes, and boundary-pushing fashion concepts have left an indelible mark on the industry, inspiring a new wave of creativity and innovation.
Balenciaga Fall 2021 Couture, Photo Courtesy of Balenciaga
Gvsalia’s impact on Balenciaga wasn’t just about streetwear; he was also responsible for reviving Balenciaga’s haute couture after a 53-year hiatus. “This wasn’t just about design; it was a deliberate cultural and historical resurrection of Cristobal Balenciaga’s original vision, adapted for a post-internet world,” notes Ms. Kublin.
In the early years, Balenciaga was all about classic designs that exuded luxury. But as time marched on, so did the brand, which took a bold turn toward edgier, more avant-garde designs. Indeed, Balenciaga is continually reimagined by various successors, each leaving their distinct mark on the brand.
Cristóbal Balenciaga at work, 1968, Paris, France. Photograph by Henri Cartier-Bresson. © Henri Cartier-Bresson Magnum Photos
Cristóbal Balenciaga, known as the “Master of Haute Couture,” opened his first, eponymously named fashion house in San Sebastian, Spain, in 1919. Following his death in 1972, Balenciaga has seen numerous changes in creative direction under different designers, experiencing both periods of decline and resurgence.
In 1987, Michel Goma was appointed the artistic director of Balenciaga. He modernized the brand’s image by introducing sleek, minimalist designs while staying true to its heritage. His collections were met with critical acclaim and helped Balenciaga regain its status.
Josephus Thimister in 1993, when he was creative director of Balenciaga, Photo by Thierry Orban, Sygma, via Getty Images
At Balenciaga, Josephus Thimister, 1992- 1997, contributed through his minimalist style and excellent skills in cutting, in modernizing the house’s image. Ralph Rucci, an avowed devotee of Balenciaga, believes that Thimister was the “greatest designer” of his generation. “With one wash of black cloth, Thimister brought back the history, the technique, the intellectual rigor to this church of couture”.
“Ghesquière embraces new technology and fabrics, and his clothes are pushed, cut, fused, and ultimately morphed into something you’ve never quite seen before. Tradition, yes, but futurism is in his DNA.” – Harriet Mays Powell, The Cut, Balenciaga Fall 2008
Balenciaga, spring 1998 ready-to-wear, photo courtesy of Balenciaga
Nicolas Ghesquière, 1997- 2012, revitalized the brand with his innovative designs, strong architectural silhouettes, and the exploration of new technologies and fabrics.
Guesquiere’s first collection, for spring 1998, a hybrid of sleek minimalism and couture drama, was approached in the “most religious way possible,” a particular renaissance in the fashion house’s history.
Suddenly, Balenciaga became the go-to choice for the fashion-forward crowd. This daring change in direction attracted a new generation of fashion enthusiasts, cementing Balenciaga’s reputation as a brand willing to push boundaries.
“Wang’s runway collection was solidly rooted in the vernacular of American sportswear, with its toggle coats, hooded parkas, cable-knit sweaters, and shopping bags cut from patent leather and fur. It was filled with confident pragmatism,” – Robin Givhan, The Cut, Balenciaga Fall 2014
Balenciaga Fall 2013 ready-to-wear, Photo by Giovanni Giannoni for WWD
Alexander Wang, the first and only American to hold the position of Balenciaga’s creative director (2013- 2015), continued to push the envelope. Wang injected a youthful, modern energy into the classic French fashion house.
Balenciaga Fall 2013 Photo by Giovanni Giannoni for WWD
Wang’s collections, a study in “confident pragmatism”, blended his signature streetwear/utility wear aesthetic with Balenciaga’s couture heritage, emphasizing knitwear and helping the brand find its footing in menswear. Wang’s restraint, quiet confidence, sophistication, and meticulous attention to detail (i.e., the recurring silver hardware on boots, bags, accessories) featured in the designer’s debut fall 2014 collection.
Balenciaga Pre Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear, Photo courtesy of Balenciaga
Pre-Fall 2014 was the most confident of all. It mixed Cristobal Balenciaga’s silhouettes, Nicolas Ghesquière’s high-tech inspirations, and Wang’s aesthetics – the eternal black & white color palette.
Fifteen years ago, Wang was New York Fashion Week’s hottest ticket. Late in 2020, Wang faced accusations by 11 people (all male or transgender) of variously groping them, drugging them, and pulling their underwear down in public – allegations which the 38-year-old initially denied.
After the accusers hired renowned lawyer Lisa Bloom (who represented Jeffrey Epstein’s victims), Wang met them and issued a public apology on Instagram, promising to “set a better example”.
The accusations tarnished Wang’s brand, but did not entirely cripple it — especially in China. He still dresses popular figures like Rihanna and Julia Fox while releasing a recent campaign with Lucy Liu. Some major retailers still carry his brand.
Wang is celebrating the 20th anniversary of his brand this year, “a notable milestone in the American fashion industry in which many mid-career designers’ businesses are contracting,” observes Vogue’s Nicole Phelps.
Alexander Wang’s minimalist, edgy men’s and women’s clothing and accessories are for sale on his website and in his flagship located at 103 Grand Street.
