What-to-Wear to the Couture Council Luncheon honoring Olivier Rousteing

Olivier Rousteing, Photo by Francesca Beltran

The Couture Council of The Museum at FIT (MFIT) will honor Olivier Rousteing, creative director of the house of Balmain, with the 2025 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion during the Council’s exclusive annual luncheon on Wednesday, September 3, 2025, at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center in New York City.

The event, which began in 2006 with Ralph Rucci as the honoree, heralds the arrival of New York Fashion Week, with proceeds benefiting The Museum at FIT, the only museum in New York dedicated exclusively to the art of fashion.

Balmain one-button belted leather jacket $4990, balmain.com

“Rousteing is creating a modern and inclusive “New French Style”—one which melds together an immediately recognizable singular silhouette, a contemporary outlook reflecting Rousteing’s own extraordinary personal journey, and a spirit pulled directly from the avenues and boulevards of a transformed-yet-eternal Paris.” Balmain.com

The popular event, which also marks the reentrée into fall from summer, is always sold out; the guests are wonderfully turned out. More often than not, they are paying sartorial tribute to the honoree or styles inspired by the work. The more identifiable the designer’s codes are, the easier it is (i.e., Lagerfeld, 2011; Thom Browne, 2017; Dior, 2021). With Olivier Rousteing, this should be a breeze.  

Balmain 6-button two-tone jacket, $3350, balmain.com

Rousteing’s decisive signature is his distinctive tailoringoften relying on powerful shoulders and highlighted waists. The sharply tailored blazer is the pivotal item in every collection.

Balmain 6-button crepe jacket with embroidered patches, $4950, balmain.com

Balmain jackets are known to feature bold embellishments and military-inspired elements, along with a sense of strength and empowerment. They don’t refer to Olivier’s faithful following as the ‘Balmain Army’, a term used to describe the brand’s dedicated and passionate fan base, for nothing.

Black and gold used in striking combinations is a recurring Rousteing theme. So is black and white, whether done in color blocks, graphic stripes, or houndstooth checks. Rousteing has also drawn inspiration from jungle-inspired palettes. Leopard regularly shows up in both ready-to-wear and accessories.  

Balmain edge-to-edge sequin tweed jacket, $4500, balmain.com

He loves a tweed frayed-edged cardigan jacket that takes its cues from Chanel. But of course, Rousteing’s gold-buttoned iterations are more like a bold and exaggerated version of Chanel’s classic style. His cropped Spencer Jackets, reminiscent of Saint Laurent, are another favorite in his collections, as are his leather designs, particularly in his signature sculpted leather looks and leather molding techniques.   

Even though the Couture Council lunch takes place in early September, it’s still summer and often sweltering. At the luncheon honoring Gabriela Hearst in 2023, temperatures were in the mid-90s, yet some guests were undaunted and still showed up wearing Gabriela’s leather maxi coats. If suffering for fashion is not your thing, there are many options.

I still know how to do denim pants that are casual and street, but I also want to take them to the next level. Usually, designers put denim in the show to tone down the collection. Me, I just want to use it to make it stronger.” – Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director, Balmain

Balmain1-button belted denim jacket $2890, balmain.com

If you want to wear a jacket, you can choose lace or denim instead of a heavy wool one. At Balmain, Olivier is known for reinterpreting denim and treating it like a couture fabric. He routinely elevates denim through intricate details, embellishments, and unique washes, moving beyond traditional denim silhouettes.

Balmain ruffled cotton poplin shirt, $1190, balmain.com

You don’t want to wear a jacket at all? You can never go wrong with a great white shirt and black trousers accessorized with a statement bag, belt, and shoes.  Like everything else at  Balmain, a shirt is never just an ordinary item of clothing; Olivier’s shirts have gold buttons and ruffles. 

Balmain ponyskin leather leopard-patterned skirt, $7500, balmain.com

Too hot to wear a leopard-print hair calf jacket or coat? How about a leopard-printed skirt paired with a black halter top?

Balmain backless silk and satin fringed top, $1590, Anthem leopard printed ponyskin bag, $2995, balmain.com

You can always accessorize with leopard-printed shoes, a belt, or carry a leopard-printed hair calf bag with something very lightweight and lingerie-inspired, paired with tailored trousers.

Balmain highwaisted gabardine skirt $1990, balmain.com

Leopard-printed accessories “zhuzh” up everything, especially black, tan, beige, and camel. And, nothing adds more impact to the simplest of outfits than bold gold hardware. You really don’t need much more. A little goes a long way.

Balmain trompe l’oeil Collier print cap sleeve tank, $645, farfetch.com

For those who are still in beach mode and don’t want to put much effort into their outfit, yet still want to be fully accessorized, nothing beats this cap sleeve tank featuring trompe l’oeil necklace printed motifs.  

Needless to say, I am merely offering suggestions. The market is flooded with options, and you can get the Balmain look elsewhere without spending a fortune. Or, you could ignore this altogether and put together something that truly reflects your individuality and brings you joy!

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Marilyn Kirschner

I am a long time fashion editor with 40+ years of experience. As senior market of Harper's Bazaar for 21 years I met and worked with every major fashion designer in the world and covered all of the collections in Paris, London, Milan and New York. I was responsible for overall content, finding and pulling in the best clothes out there, and for formulating ideas and stories.

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